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Thread: Rip sled?
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10th January 2014, 11:26 PM #1Intermediate Member
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Rip sled?
After joining last year and discovering all sorts of usefull stuff including cross cut sleds I built one for my Triton. I wish I found out about these years ago.
I have just spent the last 2 days putting in a floating floor and used the Triton for the cuts. My cross cut sled performed brilliantly but any rip cuts were a real pain.
Mark board where it needed cutting. Put it on the Triton with the mark lined up with the blade, bring the fence up. Check the fence is square, check the mark is still lined up with the blade, adjust fence, repeat.....
Is there a simple way to do a Rip cut to a mark rather than a measured width?
Do I just make a longer sled?
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15th January 2014, 09:35 AM #2
Workcentre 2K Problem
Unfortunately this is the biggest issue I have with the WC2K that the fence does not stay at right-angles to the bed.
But the answer to your question is NO you cannot rip any way other than the way you describe.
I have considered putting lock-washers on the fence arms to keep them locked at 90 degrees but, sadly, the Triton fence-arm tracks are not parallel on my table.
Sorry to bear bad news.dave
nothing is so easy to do as when you figure out the impossible.
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30th January 2014, 01:04 PM #3New Member
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30th January 2014, 04:19 PM #4Deceased
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Bob Jager has built, what I consider, the best cross cut sled for the Triton WC. It was featured on the Holmesglen Triton Club newsletter and posted on their website. That is no longer available but the link to the PDF file is found in post 3 of this link
Peter.
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30th January 2014, 07:11 PM #5New Member
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Thank you, Peter.
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30th January 2014, 07:46 PM #6
I have not had any problems cutting via rip on the Triton. What I might suggest is measure the fence at the width from the front of the blade and then again at the back of the blade.
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30th January 2014, 08:25 PM #7Chris
========================================
Life isn't always fair
....................but it's better than the alternative.
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31st January 2014, 07:17 AM #8New Member
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I will look at those. Thanks very much.
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31st January 2014, 02:04 PM #9Intermediate Member
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That's what I thought although the option of locking the fence arms at 90 degrees is interesting I might look at ways of doing that since there is no requirement for them to be anything other than 90 degrees.
that's the one I used.
I don't have problems with rip cuts in general, I suppose I could have measured my mark first before setting the fence.
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2nd February 2014, 05:06 PM #10
90 degree fence
Michaellxv it doesn't stay at 90 degrees and even with lock washers I get too much slop to commit a cut.
I too have been using Bob Jager's cross-cut sled for about 7 years now and it is excellent. Just make sure you always use that plexiglass blade protector and the block of wood behind the main fence because you don't want a spinning blade coming out the back at you while you're bent over the sled.dave
nothing is so easy to do as when you figure out the impossible.
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29th August 2014, 08:12 PM #11Member
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Rip sled?
Make a rip fence like I did - DIY Table Saw Rip Fence -
http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-...or-saw-bench-1
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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2nd September 2014, 07:23 PM #12Intermediate Member
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That's a nice solution for the Mk3, but for the WC2K I would prefer something that uses the existing channel. If I get hold of a second fence I would just modify that and fix the pivot points.
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3rd September 2014, 10:00 AM #13
Michael, your idea of using the existing channels is also problematical. I haven't read anything in other parts of this Forum about the "stickiness" of the WC2K channels but mine need a dose of WD40 at regular intervals because even with a blower and brush I can't seem to get all the junk out of these narrow channels. It's a real PITA.
BTW with "locked" arms on the rip fence you will find that you need a lot of delicate positioning of the arms to maneuver them into the channel. If you force them in, this displaces the fence and its 90 degree angle with the arms.dave
nothing is so easy to do as when you figure out the impossible.
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4th September 2014, 08:29 PM #14
I know this is an old thread (and t wasnt me who resurrected it), but for anyone else doing a search in the future - There is no need to cut to a mark. Measure the width you need (by measuring to the mark if necessary) then set the fence to that width and just rip.
Once you get your head around it, you rarely even want to cut to a mark. You set the fence and the mark is unnecessary. Think about how much laying out time you can save on a whole heap of tenons, for example, if you just set the fence instead and cut all the like pieces.
I cut to marks and do full layouts when using hand tools, but apart from curves on the bandsaw, I rarely make a mark when cutting on a power tool. You just do not need to.
Cheers
DougI got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.
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