Thread: Your latest project

Just in case you think I've slackened off.....
The Waldown drill press is back together. The table hasn't had it's final sanding - tomorrow maybe (want to wait for the paint to harden properly). Only required now is a little fiddling with the drive. That means making a intermediate pulley spindle. Its well in hand and I'll get to it shortly....
The last thing to do is find or make a belt guard....

Originally Posted by jhovel

Just in case you think I've slackened off.....
The Waldown drill press is back together. The table hasn't had it's final sanding - tomorrow maybe (want to wait for the paint to harden properly). Only required now is a little fiddling with the drive. That means making a intermediate pulley spindle. Its well in hand and I'll get to it shortly....
The last thing to do is find or make a belt guard....

looks good Joe

must try and make a start on mine

Hey Joe,

From over here that table looks good, a nice reincarnation of a barbeque hotplate. The colour looks good too.

I just slipped up to the shed to reacquaint myself with the pulley arrangement on my drills. The spindle and intermediate are 4 groove and the motor, 3. The 3M has a top speed of 3000 rpm, the garden shed beater, 5500. I have a spare 4 groove 5500 rpm spindle pulley. Yours if it's of any use. I can pull the intermediate pulley and its eccentric mount out for some photos if you need.

Bob.

Certainly looks the goods Joe. Is the table to big to give a grind? Be the best way to finish it if you can (is the grinder working yet??)

I have found a few times with the 8SN that the speed jumps are too big, i'll be interested to see what you come up with. If i find a beater one day i might put the 1hp DC motor and controller i have on it.

Ew

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Hey Joe,

From over here that table looks good, a nice reincarnation of a barbeque hotplate. The colour looks good too.

I just slipped up to the shed to reacquaint myself with the pulley arrangement on my drills. The spindle and intermediate are 4 groove and the motor, 3. The 3M has a top speed of 3000 rpm, the garden shed beater, 5500. I have a spare 4 groove 5500 rpm spindle pulley. Yours if it's of any use. I can pull the intermediate pulley and its eccentric mount out for some photos if you need.

Bob.

Thanks Bob.
I'm OK for pulley at present.
I would like to see what the eccentric mount looks like, rather than reinvent the wheel...

Originally Posted by Ueee

Certainly looks the goods Joe. Is the table to big to give a grind? Be the best way to finish it if you can (is the grinder working yet??)

....

Ew

Its too wide to grind on the B&S. I'm still messing with the slide way and lubrication... just too hot in the shed to get much done....

Originally Posted by mahgnia

If any of you have been following this thread (https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/si...lities-181303/) you may have noted that the change gear selection process for various pitch threads (both imperial and metric) can be severely restricted by the single inline gear mounting banjo mechanism and the small (40T)spindle idler gear, which can make many useful and common thread pitches physically unavailable even though the gears supplied are (theoretically!) sufficient for very accurate cutting of most pitches.

Guys,

Further to the modification to the C6 spindle idler in this post (https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...32#post1743732), I have made a replacement change gear quadrant to further increase the number of mountable and accurate change gear combinations on this lathe.

The new quadrant is longer, with a mounting slot that extends further from the leadscrew bearing mounting, and also closer to the mounting. This allows a much larger range of gear clusters to be mounted on the quadrant.
The new cluster shafts are now 3 gears deep allowing compound clusters to be mounted without interference with each other.
Pictures show the original quadrant arm with the new quadrant, the new cluster mounting shafts, bushes and gear spacers compared with the originals, and the new cluster retainer plate that is intended to provide a stiffer mounting possibly needed due to the longer shafts.
In conjunction with the selectable spindle idler gear setup shown in the post above, I expect that the number of mountable and accurate compound cluster setups that can be used for threading have been enormously enhanced.

The installed pictures show a compound cluster setup that is 3 deep to avoid cluster interference using a selected idler gear to give good mounting angles.

Andrew

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A short while ago I made up a DTI holder. Stuart pointed out a couple of issues with it and suggested that a new indicator was need.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...43#post1708543

These go for silly money when at auction but this one had a reasonable BIN price attached (for an Interapid anyway) US$75.
No engraving, minimal wear and clean. Only a slight scratch on the crystal. No box, but I can manage.

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

Stuart suggested that a new indicator was need.

How rude! (though in my defense I did suggest another way of going about it)

Very nice, you can never have to many DTI options , 0.001" is it?

Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Very nice, you can never have to many DTI options - 0.001" is it?

And there you were saying that no one ever listened to you.
Graduations of 0.0005". It fits, but only just - another few mm of clamp length would be good.

Michael

Hi All,
Back in November last year I made up a pair of the "Kant Twist" style clamps that were capable of opening out to 3-3/8" I have used them quite a few times and found them to be very good at holding without marking finished faces, I have used them in the mill as well but at times they are a bit too big. So I have made up a smaller set this time with a maximum opening of 1-3/8". I also made the bodies and screw threads out of stainless steel ( I had a piece of 2mm thick sheet in stock). I also adjusted the dimensions a little to get a deeper throat and doglegged both of the legs holding the feet to get a little more clearance. I added a hexagon head as well as on occasions the pin style handle gets in the way. They work great as well,quite a worthwhile project.A few pictures to help my text.
Bob

Very nice work there Bob, the clamps look great. Can you tell us the source of the drawings you used, or did you copy an example for the basis of your clamp design. I note your comment about a design mod to increase clearance, but did you have a drawing to start from or did you just use the material you had at hand, and adjust your working design to suit? The stainless steel would not be as strong as a medium carbon steel, particularly if it (the carbon steel) was subsequently heat treated, but on the plus side it will be much more resistant to corrosive conditions, and will still look great years after the carbon steel ones are rust piles in the corner. You may just have to watch the magpies who are attracted to other people's shiny tools though.
Rob
.

Great job Rob. I love them. I have some pieces of stainless around and I would love to make some of these. I know I have a bit of 3mm. How did you cut these out? I also love the hex ends. I know just what you mean. I often have to clamp stuff on my welding table near the legs, which is a pain for doing up the clamps.

Dean

Hi Rob & Dean,
Thanks for your comments. I originally downloaded a pdf file on the net that had some information and a plan of sort in it. From there I adjusted the design to suit the size clamp that I was after, I actually cut out a cardboard templet to check my calculations and to ensure that all components would work together. After that worked out I marked out the job out on the steel and drilled all of the holes. (See earlier post #1053 in this thread, see picture). I cut the two sets of body pieces out roughly on my band saw using existing holes to bolt through to keep everything aligned. I then used a roughing end mill and milled the arms down to size,and after a little grinding on my belt sander finished the arms. I used the 2mm stainless steel on the small clamps as it is plenty strong enough for this size clamp and saves painting and rust problems as I live right on the river. I changed the leg's shape in the smaller set to increase the legs clearance from the job.
Bob