Thread: BIL Mill Upgrade

FWIW from my position of almost complete ignorance, I suspect that the solution is that once the chain is cutting a straight line, the teeth of the chain are supporting the bar so that it doesn't sag. So the trick is getting that straight channel started - once the teeth are in the kerf the bar will not sag.

If this is the case, wouldn't we see the guide rails on the chainsaw bars wearing a lot more on the upper side than the lower? Being fairly new to chainsaw milling, I don't know if this is the case. Perhaps someone who has done a lot more milling can comment?

This is Sawdust's mill - I pretty sure it's a Granberg

HI Bob, Your BIL mill looks great. BTW my mill is a GB 4 post 66"double ender. Powerhead is fully supported. The pic of the mill was with the GB 50".

Bar sag seems to be a real problem even with the Lucas mill having a bar which is approx 2" deeper than the 60" bars we have.
I am also working on a solution for the bar sag which does not involve a clamp.


Cheers .... Laurie Sawchain not Sawdust

Originally Posted by Sawchain

. . . . Sawchain not Sawdust

Sorry Laurie, I fixed it.

I picked up a selection of rare earth magnets at work today to see if I could do better than what I already had. The system I had for testing was a nylon cord attached to the magnet at one end - thru a pulley and attached to a bucket at the other end. I fixed the pulley to the roof above my vice and attached the magnet to the vice and then added tools to the bucket. The best magnets were my original hard drive magnet and a 1" magnet both of which would support ~16 kg before letting go. Since I only need 2.5 kg of upward force I figure there is plenty left over as a holding force.

Next I decided to make a quick release mechanism for the device.

Close up of brass locking rings -

4 turns of the top ring and 1-2 of the bottom and the magnet can just be levered away. Not, I suppose super quick, but good enough for a trial run.

Next a re-jig of the aux oiler.

Cheers

This is no biggie even though it has taken me several evenings to sort out.

When stopping midway along a slab, eg to refuel, I can't just reach across the log to turn the aux oil off so I have to walk around the long.

This is because my aux oil talk is down low and the taps are underneath it like this.

With a longer bar the problem is only going to get get worse.

What often happens is the walking around the log to turn off the oiler becomes a PITA so I often just let it drip while I make a quick adjustment, then I forget it's on and I get distracted doing something else and before long half the aux oil tank has emptied itself onto the ground. Here is my solution.

Old bike gear change lever.


Connect cable to modified tap and spring mechanism.


Even though I have a needle valve installed for fine flow control, the click gear lever also seems to provide reasonably reproducible flow control as well!

Very neat, Bob.

Originally Posted by BobL

I can't just reach across the log to turn the aux oil off so I have to walk around the long.

Hi Bob, You need longer arms.
Now that you have the gear change lever when are you fitting a set of wheels ?

BTW I gave my 60 incher a run late yesterday, Guide rails are 4 mtr, will post some more pics later.

Cheers .... Laurie

Originally Posted by Sawchain

Hi Bob, You need longer arms. Now that you have the gear change lever when are you fitting a set of wheels ?

Yeah - got the brake lever and the gear lever - the wheels are coming - seriously!

BTW I gave my 60 incher a run late yesterday, Guide rails are 4 mtr, will post some more pics later.

Look forward to it!

Original BIL mill was able to be moved around easily on a sack trolley like this.


But with the new 60" rails on BIL Mill 2, the trolley is too small. I was going to extend this trolley or make a new one but as I like to lift the whole mill and trolley into my van as one so I can just slide it into the van, BIL Mill 2 plus trolley was just getting too heavy so here is my solution.



The wheels and axle are from the old trolley and are bolted onto the ends of the rails. Net effect is the new mill plus wheels is lighter than the old mill plus trolley.



Funny dog leg axle mounts are so I can use the exact same axle as on the trolley. Wing nuts are on T-Bolts that slide into the unistrut track.

What colour should I paint it?

Cheers

Originally Posted by BobL

Original BIL mill was able to be moved around easily on a sack trolley like this.

Bob, your first picture is not going to show up unless WF members are members at Arboristsite as well and logged in

Originally Posted by DJ's Timber

Bob, your first picture is not going to show up unless WF members are members at Arboristsite as well and logged in

Fixed!

Hey Bob, I don't see the steering wheel

Laurie

Originally Posted by Sawchain

Hey Bob, I don't see the steering wheel

Laurie

I'm stripping down an old mini, it's got the cutest black and alloy steering wheel you can imagine - now - how can I work that onto the mill?

It's either the steering wheel or the Harley handle bars the bikies who used to rent our place left behind. . . . . .

Bob, Nothing would surprise me - I think the Harley handlebars ..... Cheers

Off to finish milling that log