Thread: Chessboard Wood

Alright heres what im using, jarrah and silky oak for the board, possibly outlined in tasmanian blackwood, redwood and victorian ash for the pieces if they work alright because my peices of vic ash seem to be from the most outer part of the tree so the grain splits easily but ill see how it goes... I should actually be able to start my chessboard soon because im almost finished my other compulsary job. On that, is there any way to make ply look good because one side is fine but the backside is ugly, sanding would take way too long, what should i do? I didnt exactly choose these woods i just happened to get them for free, but should still look good.

Cheap ply usually comes with one dud side.

Fraid you need a better class of ply.

Is paint an option?

not sure if this will help but here are a few boards ive made in the past

larch and wenge (monty python reference)

jarah and wenge

oops sorry pictures were to big

Brazillian Walnut and New Zealand Silver Beach was what I used the las time I made one

Ross

Looks beautiful, i like it how you havent got an edge and have just made the feet from the board itself, and a better quality ply isnt an option because the school is stingy, i dont want to paint it because im not keeping it, giving it to a friend because i have no space or use for it, another downside of school, you dont really get a choice of what to make. This year if the first year ive ever got to choose what to do but we still have to complete this other one first . Was also wondering if there is anyone on the gold caost with a table saw and a thicknesser that i may be able to use close to the end of the year if i cant get both the pieces and the board done, shouldnt be a problem but just in case because i dont really trust my teacher after he cut my back piece in half...

How well does vic ash turn?

It can be coarse grained. Sandpaper will be your friend.

Ive got some kwila instead of redgum so its alright to turn, no problems yet but ive just started so we'll see how things go.

Alright ive almost finished my kwila king but have found im not very good a the very small beads, any suggestions on what i should do?

You can make your own bead scraper out of HSS electric hacksaw or planer blades Michael. Grind the profile carefully with a metal cutoff wheel; if you have access to a diamond rod that's small enough clean up the cove with that.

Or, cut down either side of what will be the bead with a parting tool, then use a small scraper or skew on its side to shape the bead.

Ive been using the second technique but am having trouble making it a fairly tight bead as is needed, do i just rotate it quicker or just push it slower, or just practice and get good at it? Oh and heres a video of the techique im using because its easier to understand that way [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fojo9LJsEiQ"]Video[/ame]

Yeah, I know what you mean. The smaller the bead the harder it is.

How about taking very small bites and then get your curve with careful sandpapering?