Thread: Nearly finished my new rip fence clone

WOW.... so many lookers and not one comment.

Set the pointer up so that is adjustable by a few millimeters either way. Set it to the middle with the fence against the blade and place your tape with the zero under the pointer.
Rip a piece of timber to any dimension you like and then check it's width with a vernier. Adjust your pointer to suit.

Originally Posted by NCArcher

Set the pointer up so that is adjustable by a few millimeters either way. Set it to the middle with the fence against the blade and place your tape with the zero under the pointer.
Rip a piece of timber to any dimension you like and then check it's width with a vernier. Adjust your pointer to suit.

Thanks NCarcher.

Really nice work! - did you fashion everything from RHS and angle iron yourself??

Originally Posted by Astrodog

Really nice work! - did you fashion everything from RHS and angle iron yourself??

Hi Astrodog,

Thanks for the feedback mate.
If you watch this bloke on YouTube he explains everything and will help you with any questions if you email him as well.

I didn't really have the room nor the money to buy a big u beat table saw so I bought a Makita MLT100. I have been happy with the saw but found that only being able to rip around 600mm was restricting - but more than anything I didn't like the fence accuracy when it was extended out.

So I decided to build a better fence and add some extra ripping capabilities to a small saw.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhZ5Mo9ma2U"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhZ5Mo9ma2U[/ame]

You should be very proud of your handiwork

That is so cool.

I haven't got any advice, I think NCArcher is on the money. But well done mate that is a seriously solid looking fence.

Sure beats the original fence by a long shot.....no flexing in that one!

Top job, Geoff.

Looking good so far.

With the pointer if you cut say a 100mm long block, place this between blade teeth and fence, and then set pointer on 100 just the same way as NC said to do with the pointer on zero, to improve the accuracy of the pointer setting with the block method you can turn the blade to find the high point (runout if any) in the blade, you'll hear the the high tooth just scrape the block and then make fine adjustments to fence/tape position/pointer position, also make sure your 100mm block is accurate tho


Pete

Thanks very much for the kind comments everyone and the help on the pointer.

Yeah it sure beats the fence that come with the MLT unit that's for sure. It took me a while to workout how to connect the back rail and have it all work in with the rest, but I got there eventually. I now have a ripping capacity of just over 1200 which is quite handy compared to the 600mm I had previously and like I said I feel that fence was very cheap and not so accurate.

I just need to tap a bolt in and throw some sort of slippery tape on the end to have it glide on the back rail to help make it slide. I added 2 magnets to hold the locking cam handle when it is not locked in place.... a couple of doors and other fiddly bits and it will be done.

I hope you all have a sticky at the video from woodman as it got me real interested in building this fence and check out some of his other work - he's a great guy and was very helpful to me during my build.

Cheers guys

Finished fabricating my pointer and have attached it to the fence. I just need to take it off paint it and then the fence will be pretty much finished.

Looks good Geoff, a nice thin line on the perspex just a note, the closer you have the line to the tape the less likely you are to get parrallelax (spelling?) error, alternatively if you have two lines directly above each other which you then sight onto the tape, a bit more complication tho.
The next thing you need is a couple of flip stops


Pete

Thanks PJT.