Thread: the secret project ... near the end of the journey

Sorry Derek I missed your question and so I'll answer your's and Bob38's questions in a 'necessity is the mother of invention' WIP,
I cut drawer laminations about 3 mm thick and slightly larger than the final size. I was almost out of the beautiful dark oz red cedar so I was forced to make the inner laminations out of a much lighter oz cedar. I finish sanded the outer faces and

pic 1, I covered them with masking tape to protect against any misplaced glue. Don't overlap the masking tape as the double thickness will be impressed into the outer faces

pic 2, coat the mating surfaces with glue and make sure you brush the glue over the entire surface, make the stack into a sandwich and....

pic 3, place the sandwich in the former between 2 pieces of laminex. The laminex stops the sandwich from sticking to anything and stops any blemishes on the former from being impressed into the drawer face

pic4, clamp up the former and check that there has been glue squeeze out from each joint. Note that I use my vise to clamp such a simple form and I really don't understand those who use half of the World's population of clamps on simple forms.

pic 5, I made up a simple jig that allows me to cut the blank to length and to ensue that the cut is square to the chord and then reversed the jig so that ....

pic 6, I can use a router cutter to machine the face that the drawer side will butt into and to ensure that face is square to the end cut BUT THEN....

I discovered that the combined geometry of the drawer front thickness, the curve itself, and the need to make the mating face of the drawer side 12 mm meant that there wasn't enough remaining thickness for a meaningfull dovetail dimension ... lots and lots of red wine .... so I came up with a solution of gluing a packing piece onto the face receiving the drawer side. This packing piece is of the lighter material and APPEARS to be part of the drawer side BUT it is part of the drawer front (more later...),

pic 7, I made a simple jig that clamped and supported the drawer front and accepted the comb from my old Carbatec dovetail jig. I machined the four sockets the traditional way with a 12,7mm dovetail bit and a bushing guide on the face plate

pic 8, the machined drawer front was then ready to receive the drawer sides that were dovetailed in the 'reassembled' dovetail jig

pic 9 shows that the packing piece has created a two-tone dovetail effect that I have told less knowledgeable people is a design feature but forumites will quickly see is a fortuitous recovery from a perfectly predictable problem!

By the way, all of these jigs are available on loan to the forum so, Derek, if you want to design your bank of drawers around 300mm outer radius and 280mm radius inner surface ... they are yours!

fletty

Boy Fletty, haven't you been having fun, great work. Since reading this I have decided to keep a case of red wine in my shed.

Hi Fletty

By coincidence my drawers will be the same dimensions in curve and width as yours. Hopefully they will turn out as nice.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Many thanks for the clear explanation Fletty - much appreciated.

Regards,
Bob

I got quite a lot done on the weekend and the weather was just so beautiful to work outside. The table tops are now fixed to the leg assembly, the catches for the hidden drawer are complete, the 6 drawers are finished but not yet assembled and I have oiled and buffed the tops.
In another thread, https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/he...lywood-119994/ I asked about 'printing' an image on plywood. This was so that I could put a message just inside each drawer and I am well underway with that as well.

So this weeks progress is ...

pic 1 is the message that will be seen inside each drawer and this is the first complete one. The process is (now!) several coats of water based gloss, inkjet print on the self adhesive film, cut and attach the film, spray with a testors clear which is used to protect homemade inkjet water slide transfers and then finish with a coat of estapol spray gloss.

pic 2, is from underneath and shows the leaf support and catch for the hidden drawer retracted and

pic 3 shows the leaf support extended and the catch open

I can hear the sound of a red wine opening .......
fletty

now thats progress Fletty glad I have been sooooooooo quiet.

Like the knob did you turn those ..........

Originally Posted by wheelinround

Like the knob did you turn those ..........

me?
turn?
come on Ray, you know I get giddy turning .........
nup, they are Bunnings $2 radiata knobs (including brass insert and screw, how do they do it!) BUT, I've been thinking about knobs for the drawers. I've got a straight edge that my father made from ebony at High School in 1938. In old 'money' it is 36" x 2" x 1/4". I've been thinking of going the whole heirloom journey and getting you to turn 6 drawer knobs from that. I was thinking of cutting it into various sized squares, boring a hole in the centre of each square except the top one, and then stacking and gluing them on a dowel.
It will require more wine to resolve because I have also planned to use the ebony for a frame for his medals ...... so many ideas ... so little shed time .....
fletty

Originally Posted by fletty

me?
turn?
come on Ray, you know I get giddy turning .........
nup, they are Bunnings $2 radiata knobs (including brass insert and screw, how do they do it!) BUT, I've been thinking about knobs for the drawers. I've got a straight edge that my father made from ebony at High School in 1938. In old 'money' it is 36" x 2" x 1/4". I've been thinking of going the whole heirloom journey and getting you to turn 6 drawer knobs from that. I was thinking of cutting it into various sized squares, boring a hole in the centre of each square except the top one, and then stacking and gluing them on a dowel.
It will require more wine to resolve because I have also planned to use the ebony for a frame for his medals ...... so many ideas ... so little shed time .....
fletty

Sure thats not the red making you giddy

Gee what a let down $2 bunnies and Radiata at that

Yes was wondering where the straight edge ideas went... depending on size and number required I have at my disposal some old piano key ebony which might be nah to small although 1/4"sounds about right.

That old ebony straight edge should remain just that if its still true, straight and can tan a hide when required use it for the medals

Nice work fletty, I love the printed message on the table top.

I finally got the printing on plywood to work (pic 1) and I'm thinking of French Provincial for the knobs (pic 2) ......?
fletty

All very schmick indeed, the printing looks great, even the $2 knobs look good

PS you still passing by tomorrow?

Excellent Work

Originally Posted by Claw Hama

PS you still passing by tomorrow?

That could be dangerous

We'll find out soon