Card Scrapers vs Scraper Planes

**woodhog** · 27th January 2006, 03:52 PM

Thanks for the photo course. The existing 55 degree bevel prior to my purchase of this tool honed & with a burr that hooks on my fingernail makes smaller curly shavings than your photo similiar to an electric jointer planer but smaller. It requires some strength using it on oak. Using it with a slight angle & going with the wood grain of course helped the scraping action. Guessing from the rust I removed, this tool sat for awhile who knows why. Well I think I need to finally reshape the edge for 30 or 45 degree. I'll be removing a fair amount of metal to make such a change. Should I file my bevel freehand or should I try a jig similair to yours to make a straight non wavy bevel & edge? lol Both #12 plane & blade are kunz. It seems to have a hardness similiar to a jack plane knife & a 0.066 scraper blade thickness x 3" width x 5" long might help someone more experienced with these variables decide which bevel angle I should file on for best edge / burr strength. By the way do you push or pull a #12 single handle design? I also read in an scraper plane advertisement that as a burr wears you can change the angle somewhat to avoid making a burr as often. Does this work? If the burr is just deformed & sharp it might work for a little while? I do think even a burr becomes dull & useless at some point.
By the way have you ever heard of a diamond coated burnisher? I saw one advertised recently by a mfg homepage in Sheffield England.

**derekcohen** · 27th January 2006, 04:32 PM

Woodhog

I imagine pushing a #12 primarily. The angle of the blade would make it a great effort to plane with, so pulling it would be hard work. I have only pushed my #112 (size of a #4 1/2 plane), but I do also pull a #80.

A 55 degree blade is, I think, part of the problem. I have a distant memory of the LN #112 originally being honed at 60 degrees, and eventually they changed this to 45 degrees. Scraping generated a great deal of friction (from the resistance at the blade angle), which translates into heat (ask your finger how they feel next time on the cardscraper). Heat leads to increased wear. A higher angle bevel should retain an edge longer than a narrower bevel (owing to greater support). But this also never is a sharp - in terms of sharp equating to penetration. So a lower angle bevel feels/acts sharper than a higher angle bevel. This is why I moved to a 30 degree bevel on my scraper blade. There is a significant difference in planing. All this is saying that you need to hone your blade as sharp as possible, and I recommend trying a 30 degree bevel first - you can always increase this to 45 degrees by adding a microbevel later.

Oh, forget the diamond burnisher. I cannot imagine whatb this is intended for, but what you want is a hardened steel edge that is FLAT and SMOOTH. As I have said elsewhere, you are not sharpening a knife. The profile on the blade will transfer to the wood. A serrated edge on the steel is what you will see/feel on the wood if you put it on the steel.

Regards from Perth

Derek

**Beefwood Pete** · 30th January 2006, 05:59 PM

The Stanley 80 type is a very useful tool, whichever brand you choose.

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