Thread: Double fence for Makita

get a woodrat - do a sliding dovetail on the 'Rat and you would never go back to any other way

I dont know if this is of any interest/help to You. Its a link to the Accurate Guide review. You can make sliding dovetails and dado with it, no big jigsand not to much set up.
Link: http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews...eguidervu.html

Cheers. Gary.

When I made 2 edge guides for my Makita, I used a piece of 8mm stainless rod.

I would be surprised if your bigger Mak was too much different. That is if you decide to make some edge guides and need longer beams.

Thanks fellas.

Gary, I had a look at the Accurate guide and it looks good for cutting the slots but not sure about the tail. I will have a better look at the site later.

Schtoo, I saw your jig in another thread. I think I will have to make something similar. The 3612 edge guide has 12mm rods that I am sure I can source locally, and they are 116mm apart.

I would probably use larger timber for the guide, maybe 3x2s, so I get more contact/stability against the side of the verticle board.

In my router handbook there is a double edge guide that looks like 2 Makita guides - one on each end of the parrallel rods. That would be just what I would like. I think I saw a Trend guide in a catalogue somewhere that had the double edge guide. What chance would there be for the rods and spacing to match the Makita?

Doug, I wish I knew how to get an avitar like yours. As much as I like what I have read about the Woodrat, I can't justify the purchase yet.

I have a good idea about what to build and I will keep searching the catalogues for a ready made one.

Thanks again.

Originally Posted by Scally

.......Doug, I wish I knew how to get an avitar like yours. As much as I like what I have read about the Woodrat, I can't justify the purchase yet......

Avatar is easy to get, just right click on her then click on "save picture as"

Pleased you have looked at the woodrat, im learning more things it can do every day

You could make something like this

I like it.
It looks like a pretty good sled for flattening boards.
The adjustment options must be very handy.

If I made the feet longer so they extended under the router to the bit, it would do exactly what I want.

It is good to see a picture.

Thanks.

Hi,

I rout running dovetails all the time on the bench and don't have a problem. The main thing is to remove as much stock from the slot as possible with a sawblade. I then run the piece over the dovetail to remove the leading edges and whatever material is left.

For the tongue, I do all the work with the router, making sure the first passes just tickle the wood to remove the leading edge cleanly and prevent breakout.

I built the dog's bed using this method:

Attachment 21785

Making a dovetail groove without first removing stock, puts a lot of stress on the router, bit and workpiece - but, with a little bit of prep work, you can eliminate the need for special jigs in this case.


Damien

I rout running dovetails all the time on the bench and don't have a problem. The main thing is to remove as much stock from the slot as possible with a sawblade.
Damien[/QUOTE]

Thanks Damien.

I use a straight bit to remove the bulk of the waste.
I have just moved house and don't have 3 phase power for my table saw so I am a bit limited.

I used the router table to make the tongues and handheld router and a fence to cut the grooves.

I probably should have use the router table for both.