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Thread: Tailstock DRO
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22nd March 2011, 11:46 AM #16
This is one of the things on my "todo" list and I have accumulated a few ideas from the various websites and forums.
One of the ways of overcoming your problem that I have seen presented is to use ball links as used on r/c helicopters, look for a thread called YATSDRO (yet anohter tail stock DRO) by Dickeybird on HSM.
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22nd March 2011 11:46 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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22nd March 2011, 12:17 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Big Shed
Thanks but you're going to have to help me out a little more. I'm guessing "high school musical" isn't where you are trying to send me
I assume you mean heim/rose joints?
In a perfect world I'd like to have it set up as a place to store "the vernier you use when you don't really care" . So if I can come up with something that can lift off that would be handy... if not, you cant win them all.
Stuart
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22nd March 2011, 12:59 PM #18GOLD MEMBER
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Fred's referring to the Home Shop Machinist forum.
Here's the YATSDRO article.
Guaranteed no singing or dancingGeoff
The view from home
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22nd March 2011, 01:15 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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I think I might be a member there lol shhhh better not tell them I cant rememnber the name.
Thats a nice looking set up, I'll dig out my RC car and see what I can find.
Thanks guys
Stuart
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22nd March 2011, 01:23 PM #20SENIOR MEMBER
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Why not, if it gets the job done without damaging the operator, tool or machine? You use what ever you have to get the job done. At the end of the day a slot drill is pretty much like a twist drill.
Years ago I was using a press at work after knock off, (with permission from the boss) to press a new timing gear onto a Holden red 6 crank. Anyway I was rushing a bit and the spacer (actually a deep socket) I was using to clear the end of crank to press the gear on moved a bit ( I didn't notice it immediately) and I ended up putting a .038" bend in the crank. oops.
I ended up using my old lathe at home to straighten the crank.
Put the crank between centres with a bit of plate across the ways (some 3 mm alloy between to protect the ways) and a small engineers screwjack between the plate and the crank. Had to push it about .200" to over come the spring in the crank but managed to get it back to about .002" runout. I could spring it more than that just by pushing on it by hand.
Ran both the lathe and the engine for years after that.
desperate men do desperate things LOL
bollie7
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24th March 2011, 11:05 PM #21GOLD MEMBER
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Well against forum wisdom I'm going to make a new key and see how it goes. I'll leave the keyway in the quill alone, making the key wider, higher, longer and deeper. The best bit it gives me an excuse to use my rotary table lol
Bollie7 milling cutters are said to be more likely to pull the chuck off the MT taper. I'm not sure how true it is.
Stuart
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25th March 2011, 01:04 AM #22Dave J Guest
I made one and it will help, but you will still end up with some movement.
I was going to ask about the paper, just approach it so the milling cutter pushes it into the rotary table. For final fitting it is easier to file fit and use wet and dry paper when you get close to bring in the last bit. Doing it this way give you a ground like finish instead of having high points that will wear down and create slop.
Dave
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25th March 2011, 07:07 AM #23SENIOR MEMBER
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Stuart
I haven't heard that but it could well be true. I'm trying to think why that might happen but its far too early in the morning for that depth of thought. lol
Apparently twist drills cut/perform differently between the job stationary and the drill turning to the drill stationary and the job turning too. I read an article about it once which went into great detail about why it was so, but I can't remember the reasons now though.
regards
bollie7
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25th March 2011, 09:11 AM #24GOLD MEMBER
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Same as between work piece and table. I've read that it holds better especially if the taper isn't perfect. Its the first time I have tried it(no draw bar btw). Good point about the cutting forces towards the table, that's the sort of thing I think about afterwards!
Bollie7 I'm not so sure I believe it myself sometimes, especially if you are opening out a pilot hole witha twist drill.
Stuart
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25th March 2011, 01:36 PM #25GOLD MEMBER
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Finished. Goes from a little slop 100mm out(but not enough to worry about). Zero slop at 50mm. Zero slop but tight to wind at 0mm(but I loose the first 25mm when I am drilling holes anyway). Now I just have to wait for the postie.
A before and after picture. The pin is about 0.1mm bigger in Dia, the key is about 0.2mm wider and 1.2mm higher. be interesting to see if it stays tight for long.
BTW the quill is hard, I cleaned it up a little with a diamond file but grinding would be the only way to get it spot on I think.
StuartLast edited by Stustoys; 25th March 2011 at 02:27 PM. Reason: oops frilling = drilling hehe
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25th March 2011, 01:44 PM #26GOLD MEMBER
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What is frilling?
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25th March 2011, 06:11 PM #27
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25th March 2011, 07:21 PM #28GOLD MEMBER
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I thought it might of been some sort of wood butcher term.
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27th March 2011, 10:44 PM #29Dave J Guest
Good job on the keys they came up good.
I came across this link on another forum today, he has it set at a nice angle.
Mini Lathe DRO's
Dave
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27th March 2011, 11:41 PM #30GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks Dave.
That scale looks like it was made from the same parts as my vernier. Wish the postie would hurry up. I'll test it against the DRO on the mill just for fun.
Stuart
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