Thread: Tailstock DRO

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Any links of someone that has done this before?

Thanks

Stuart

Congratulations on a job well done Stuart, I have just found this thread, and had a quick read through. I know that this is too late as you have completed your project, - the link I am attaching is possibly how the top European machine tool makers may have approached the problem in the 1970s. This though is the work of an American who rebuilt a worn out and abused Monarch 10EE, and then added some bling of his own design. As he had started with a totally used up POS in his words, he had no qualms in drilling a few needed holes to anchor it.
I think that I would agree with him on his preference for a dial indicator, where you watch the needle approach the mark rather than count the digits on an LCD, (a bit like digital and analogue watches).
If this sounds like some kind of backhanded compliment, it is not intended to, you have made a useful improvement to your lathe, and done it well, but Daryl Bane is obviously a very talented tradesman, and it would appear he has an artists eye as well. A search of his posts will show more of his excellent work on Practical Machinist if anyone is interested.
EE Tailstock fun - Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web
Rob.

Thanks guys.

Hi Rob,

It will be interested to see how easy it is to read, I'd been thinking it might vibrate to much.
I had been thinking about making a stop something like the one in your link but with a positive stop rather than a dial indicator. Just thought I would give this type a go first.

Stuart

p.s. I might steal his idea of an oil felt on the front of the quill though.

Nice one Stuart. But those inside jaws look like wrist-slashers. I'd say off with their heads!

Edit: Or maybe stick corks or something on them?

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Thanks guys.

Hi Rob,

It will be interested to see how easy it is to read, I'd been thinking it might vibrate to much.
I had been thinking about making a stop something like the one in your link but with a positive stop rather than a dial indicator. Just thought I would give this type a go first.

Stuart

p.s. I might steal his idea of an oil felt on the front of the quill though.

G'day Stuart,
Yes, you may have a problem with display jitter if there is excess play between the ram and the tailstock housing if there is vibration too, time will tell on that score, and I must say that I had not considered that potential issue, but just moving in on a value showing on a digital display would seem more difficult to me than watching a needle on a dial indicator approach the mark. Others may be different in that way to me, but I find an analogue needle more intuitive than an LCD, possibly because you don't have to think about is as much.
The felt seals would help keep swarf and other detritus at bay, a lip seal if one of appropriate size was available may be an alternative way of doing it.
Have you seen his post on the carriage dials, or as I think he called them "Micro-gageing Dial resto Pts. 1 and 2". He certainly does pretty work.
Keep up the good work, and best wishes,
Rob.

Hi Stuart,
It will be good to hear how it works. I know it's hard to cut up tools (even cheap calipers), but those jaws need to go to be safe.
I have probably 6 or 7 pairs of them but I still haven't brought myself to cutting them.
The collar looks like it came out good, did you do the outside on the rotary table or by hand?

As you know I added the tailstock wipers and like the idea of a quill wipers because it's another mod, but am not sure it is are really needed as not much gets on it. It would also cut down travel a bit more than what it is.

Rob,
I have those pictures saved from when I saw it last year. that tailstock it beautiful and he has done a great job on adding those accessories to blend in.
I also have a picture of a tailstock that was posted on PM of a tailstock that reads the exact travel from the collar graduations. inside it is a geared setup from factory. I think it would work fine until the nut wore and got backlash.

Dave

Originally Posted by Ropetangler

G'day Stuart,
Yes, you may have a problem with display jitter if there is excess play between the ram and the tailstock housing if there is vibration too, time will tell on that score, and I must say that I had not considered that potential issue, but just moving in on a value showing on a digital display would seem more difficult to me than watching a needle on a dial indicator approach the mark. Others may be different in that way to me, but I find an analogue needle more intuitive than an LCD, possibly because you don't have to think about is as much.
The felt seals would help keep swarf and other detritus at bay, a lip seal if one of appropriate size was available may be an alternative way of doing it.
Have you seen his post on the carriage dials, or as I think he called them "Micro-gageing Dial resto Pts. 1 and 2". He certainly does pretty work.
Keep up the good work, and best wishes,
Rob.

Hi Rob
I am not sure if it would be easier because you would have to watch what revolution it was on with the smaller dial inside, which can sometimes be hard to read.

Dave

You guys just want me to wreak my $8 vernier lol
I'll have another look tomorrow, they are a fare way from the chuck.

Dave, I'll check the tail stock with a dead center it in tomorrow, but the quill is out 1/2"+ with the live center and 1"+ with the drill chuck(I haven't cut the tang off it). So I wouldn't lose travel. Still its not like I don't have other things to do.

Rob,I looked at those other threads, he sure does nice work.

Stuart

Originally Posted by Dave J

Hi Rob
I am not sure if it would be easier because you would have to watch what revolution it was on with the smaller dial inside, which can sometimes be hard to read.

Dave

Hi Dave,
I hope that you are on the improve since last we corresponded, I am well, but have done myself an injury to my right hand, and am missing a couple of weeks of 12 shifts shutdown work, which for me is as handy as a sore bum for a boundary rider! Other than no money, I am fine.
I see what you mean WRT reading the dial, one solution may be a cheap reversing camera focussed on the dial, and feeding a 7 inch or so display, but I still think that once you were familiar with it, a quick glance would be all you need to read the dial(s), just like a quick glance at an analogue watch enables you to tell the time whereas you really have to read a display to tell the time with an LCD watch. Granted, it would need to be well lit to read at a glance.
Apologies in advance Stuart for the thread hijack, but Dave have you seen these links too?
Micro-Gaging Dial resto. Pt.2 - Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web

1959 Monarch EE-Endgame - Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web
'Night all,
Rob

Originally Posted by Stustoys

You guys just want me to wreak my $8 vernier lol
I'll have another look tomorrow, they are a fare way from the chuck.
Stuart

G'day again Stuart and all,
Just a quick one as my beloved does some reading before lights out, have you seen the article in Model Engineers' Workshop issue 173 with regard to interfacing cheap Chinese vernier scales to external displays, in this case Shumatech displays. It would be worth a look if yo can get your hands on a copy, and if you have any problems getting access to the article concerned, give me a yell and I'll shoot you a copy.
Glad you enjoyed Daryl's work Stuart, I certainly do.
Definitely nighty nite now,
Rob.

Rob,
It will be interesting to see because I find dial venires a pain to use, you can't just "look" at them and know the length, but that's compared to normal venires not digital ones.
Having said that I haven't had nearly the practice with dial venires that I have had with normal ones.

I haven't seen the article and wouldn't know where to look so I'll gladly have a copy if you can find it. I have notice it has the socket even though they don't say so.


Stuart

Originally Posted by Ropetangler

Hi Dave,
I hope that you are on the improve since last we corresponded, I am well, but have done myself an injury to my right hand, and am missing a couple of weeks of 12 shifts shutdown work, which for me is as handy as a sore bum for a boundary rider! Other than no money, I am fine.
I see what you mean WRT reading the dial, one solution may be a cheap reversing camera focussed on the dial, and feeding a 7 inch or so display, but I still think that once you were familiar with it, a quick glance would be all you need to read the dial(s), just like a quick glance at an analogue watch enables you to tell the time whereas you really have to read a display to tell the time with an LCD watch. Granted, it would need to be well lit to read at a glance.
Apologies in advance Stuart for the thread hijack, but Dave have you seen these links too?
Micro-Gaging Dial resto. Pt.2 - Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web

1959 Monarch EE-Endgame - Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web
'Night all,
Rob

I have seen the first one but not the second. Really nice lathe but a bit short for me and my jobs.

Dave

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Rob,
It will be interesting to see because I find dial verniers a pain to use, you can just "look" at them and know, but thats compeared to normal verniers not digital ones.
Having said that I havent had nearly the practice with dial verniers that I have had with normal ones.

I havent seen the article and wouldn't know where to look so I'll gleadly have a copy if you can find it. I have notice it has the socket even though they dont say so.

Stuart

Gday Stuart and All,
Wasn't sure what you were trying to say in the first part of your post Stuart, either it was too late, or snake-bight cure was involved, or both, but if you send me your e-mail address, I will send you photos of the pages of the MEW article. Just one thing, it is about 2.6mMB in file size and took ages to upload a copy to myself (7Mins or so) but I got the e-mail back within a few seconds of hearing the mail sent chime. If the file size is a problem, I can send smaller image files which may still be ok to read at your end, but is only about 850KB in total size which should be ok if the larger file will cause problems. The pages are quite readable in the larger file size, but not the greatest of quality, because I used available light, rather than the flash, as the paper the magazine uses is coated and causes glare and reflections unless you set the lighting up at an angle such that any reflections are aimed away from the lens. That would have taken me some time to organise, and I thought that I'd try the simple way first. However if you need a better job because your eyes are older than mine, then sing out and I'll get it set up a bit more propper!!
Now my dog is hounding the daylights out of me for a walk, He obviously thinks that if I'm still at home and not at work, there is no reason for me to be ignoring him, so I'd better take him out before it starts raining again.
And Dave, although the 10 EE would do possibly 95% of the jobs you ever needed to do, I too feel that they are a little short in the most common 20" B.C. size, and although they also did a 30" B.C. bed, they are ultra rare. Now that C.V.A. would have been just about the perfect match I reckon.
Regards All,
Rob

omg I must have been half asleep. I've fixed the spelling and changed a can to a can't. lol maybe it makes a little more sense now(maybe not)

Also part of the confusion is I should have used the word "caliper" as neither dial venires or digital venires are in fact Verviers.

Basically what I was trying to say is, I've used vernier calipers for many years and can get a rough reading just looking at them. I bought 300mm and 100mm dial calipers and find I'm very slow reading them. Maybe it's lack of practice and its certainly not helped by the 300mm/0.02mm caliper being 1 turn to 2mm and the 100mm/0.01mm caliper being 1 turn to 1mm.

PM sent
It sure is one pretty lathe, even if it is a little short. It certainly looks like it would be super rigid. Did they make a capstan lathe? Anyone know what the little aluminum(?) thing is on the tailstock casting below and to the right of the dial indicator is for?

Stuart