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  1. 11th March 2008, 11:44 AM #1
    fanlee
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    Default OK....why did this happen...?

    Hi.
    I stained the front back & sides with the same water soluble dye, sealed top back & sides with the same shellac before spraying with StewMac Colortone water based lacuer sing a Wagner W550.

    When I sprayed - all at the same tme - the back & sides turned out basically OK (with a run or two),...but the front turned out to have a sort of 'cracked' appearance or like a spider web patten or snake scales... I don't think I dd anything different...

    I've sanded it all back, but I want to avoid a repetition.

    Please shed some light on this if you're able...
    Thanks, Rob
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  3. 11th March 2008, 01:13 PM #2
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    echnidna
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    Default

    either the stain or the shellack hadn't cured long enough before the finish coats
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com
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  4. 11th March 2008, 03:24 PM #3
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    old_picker
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    Default

    i use this stuff a lot
    instead of shellac use colortone sanding sealer

    maybe the shellax was a little waxy - there is shellac and shellac

    get a few thin coats of sealer on and level it hard, once youve got a level surface shoot up to 3 or 4 coats a day at 1-2 hour intervals depending on weather

    sand it flat about every 6 coats after 12 you should let it gas off in a hot room for 2 weeks - the trick with this stuff is cure well, wet nd dry up to 1000 and dry sand from 1200 to 2500 then buff out - best ,mrror shine ever

    i assume this is a guitar??
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'
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  5. 11th March 2008, 04:08 PM #4
    fanlee
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by old_picker View Post
    i assume this is a guitar??
    Yep.

    Taylor T5 shape with P90's blackwood top.

    If I get the burst right again it will look just like the pic in their brochure

    Thanks for the tips.

    Rob.
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  6. 11th March 2008, 05:00 PM #5
    MacS
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    Default Spraying Problems?

    That could also happen if the gun is held to close to the work.

    Two, your makng to many passes to fast and not allowing the solvent to flash off.

    Three, you may not be keeping the coating well mixed and the materials were not balanced on the doors.
    http://www.macsimmons.com/
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  7. 11th March 2008, 07:36 PM #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by fanlee View Post
    Yep.

    Taylor T5 shape with P90's blackwood top.

    If I get the burst right again it will look just like the pic in their brochure

    Thanks for the tips.

    Rob.
    post pics in the musical instrument forum
    go on!!


    by the way many light coats are way better than few heavy coats
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'
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  8. 14th March 2008, 01:45 PM #7
    fanlee
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    Default

    ....post pics in the musical instrument forum
    go on!!
    .....


    Almost ready to do that...

    Just on the sanding out...why do you dry sand from 1200 up?

    Also..I had binding isuues & scraped them to clean them up & to avoid a 'ridge' I padded on the colortone lacquer also to sort of seal them...it went on really well using the pad. It might be useful for smaller or fiddly bits every now & then.

    Rob.
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  9. 14th March 2008, 04:25 PM #8
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    Default

    just a tip mate
    sand it wet above 1000 and you will see what i am talking about
    a lacey pattern will show up - drysanding with clen new paper is the way to go
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'
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